The story of the Mountaineering Association of J&K’s recent expedition to UT Kangri Peak is a tale of courage, perseverance, and an unyielding spirit. On August 11, 2024, four climbers—Sumit Khajuria, Shashi Kant, Mallikarjun Singh, and Sourav Deep Singh—achieved what many might consider impossible. They successfully summited UT Kangri, a formidable peak standing tall at 6,070 meters in the stark and rugged landscape of Ladakh. Their journey is not just a remarkable feat of physical endurance but also a testament to the human spirit’s ability to overcome adversity in the face of overwhelming challenges.
From the outset, this expedition was marked by a determination that would carry these climbers through the most trying of circumstances. The team was flagged off from Jammu on August 1, 2024. This was not merely a ceremonial send-off; it was an acknowledgment of the immense task that lay ahead and the hopes pinned on these brave individuals to achieve what few have dared to attempt. The path to the summit was not just a physical journey but an emotional and psychological battle as well. Upon reaching Leh, the team began the crucial process of acclimatization. In mountaineering, acclimatization is not just important—it is essential. The team spent five days engaging in height-gaining treks, a necessary step to prepare their bodies for the reduced oxygen levels and the physical strain that would come with climbing to such an altitude. These treks were gruelling, demanding a level of fitness and mental toughness that few possess. However, it was clear from the start that this team was not only physically prepared but mentally resolute. The weather conditions in Leh were favourable, a rare blessing that the team did not take for granted. With their acclimatization complete, the climbers headed towards their target—the mighty UT Kangri. The journey to the Base Camp at 5,320 meters was a test of endurance, but the team was undaunted. Their training had been rigorous, and they were confident in their abilities. However, as any seasoned mountaineer will attest, confidence must be tempered with respect for the mountain. The team was well aware that UT Kangri, like all great peaks, was indifferent to their hopes and ambitions. It would challenge them in ways they could not yet foresee. The decision to make an early attempt on the summit was driven by a combination of factors: the team’s excellent physical condition, their acclimatization, and the favourable weather. Timing is everything in mountaineering, and the team knew that delaying the attempt could mean missing the narrow window of opportunity that the mountain was offering. On the morning of August 11, with the weather holding steady, the team, along with two Sherpa guides, embarked on the final leg of their journey. They made a strategic decision to avoid the snow-covered route, opting instead for the scree slopes. While the scree was more physically demanding, it was also considered safer, a choice that reflected the team’s prudence and understanding of the mountain’s unpredictable nature. The ascent was arduous, a six-hour battle against gravity, fatigue, and the thin air. Every step was a victory, every breath a reminder of the altitude. Yet, through sheer determination, the team pressed on. The climbers relied on each other for strength, embodying the true spirit of mountaineering where success is a collective achievement. They were not just individuals climbing a mountain; they were a team, each member crucial to the others’ success. Finally, after hours of relentless climbing, the team reached the summit of UT Kangri. It was a moment of triumph, not just for the four climbers but for the entire Mountaineering Association of J&K, and indeed, for all of India. The sight of the National Flag being unfurled at the summit was a powerful symbol of the team’s achievement and a proud moment for the nation. Alongside the Tricolor, the flags of the J&K Sports Council and the Mountaineering Association of J&K were also raised, signifying the collective effort and support that had made this historic ascent possible.
The climbers of the Mountaineering Association of J&K have shown us that with determination, preparation, and teamwork, even the most daunting challenges can be overcome. Their journey to the top of UT Kangri Peak is an inspiration to all of us, a reminder that no peak is too high to climb, no goal too difficult to achieve.