Pt. Shambu Nath Sharma
In the serene folds of Chenani in District Udhampur lies a sacred realm where faith and eternity meet, Buda Kedar Nath, an ancient and revered Tirtha dedicated to Lord Shiva. Steeped in legend, sanctified by miracles, and enveloped in an aura of timeless devotion, this shrine is more than a destination; it is a divine experience that awakens the soul and humbles the heart. Situated about 113 km from Jammu and 47 km from Udhampur, the temple is easily accessible by a well-laid road that winds gracefully along the majestic Tawi River. A right turn from Chenani town towards the Chenani–Pattangarh road, followed by a 14 km drive and a 5 km link road from Raji Mohra, leads pilgrims to this hallowed abode. On the way, another sacred spot known as ‘Gaya’, located across a serene stream, invites devotees to pause and offer prayers before they reach the sanctum of Buda Kedar Nath.
The temple itself is a marvel of nature and faith, built over a natural stone cave beside the sacred rivulet Devak, which locals revere as divine. Within this cave, the mystic presence of Lord Shiva manifests as a stone formation resembling His knee, a symbol of His eternal presence and boundless compassion. Pilgrims must pass through a narrow, dimly lit passage to have a glimpse of this sacred knee, an act that symbolizes the journey from darkness to light, from ignorance to spiritual awakening. Here, miracles unfold quietly yet profoundly, the very first ray of the rising sun touches Lord Shiva’s knee through an unseen aperture, as if nature itself bows in reverence. Equally mysterious is the temple’s nightly sanctity; no human is able to stay within its premises after dusk. The evening rituals are performed before sunset, and the Mahant departs soon after, for it is believed that those who attempt to remain inside are gently but firmly expelled by an unseen divine force. At times, villagers awaken to the sound of conch shells and the fragrance of sacred offerings emanating from the temple before dawn, even though no one is present within. These mystical happenings reaffirm the deeply held belief that Mahadev Himself graces this place in His ethereal form.
The sacred name Buda Kedar Nath has its roots in divine lore. It is believed that Lord Shiva once appeared here disguised as an aged Sadhu,‘Buda’, during one of the most dramatic episodes in the cosmic saga. The story speaks of Bhasmasur, a demon who devoted himself to Lord Shiva for thousands of years and was granted a boon: anyone upon whose head he placed his hand would turn to ashes. But arrogance corrupted devotion, and Bhasmasur sought to test the boon on Shiva Himself. The Great Lord, foreseeing the destruction such unchecked power could bring, withdrew from the heavens and descended to Earth. Disguised as an old sage, He took refuge in the cave at Buda Kedar Nath, sitting silently with His knee facing outward. Yet Bhasmasur pursued Him relentlessly. As the demon attempted to enter, a powerful circle of divine fire blocked his path. Shiva then transformed His knee into stone, the sacred relic that devotees still venerate today.
In the unfolding of destiny, Lord Vishnu, moved by the plight of creation, descended in the enchanting form of Mohini, a celestial dancer of divine grace. Entranced by her beauty and rhythm, Bhasmasur began to mimic her movements. As Mohini raised her hands above her head, so did the demon, and in that moment, his own boon consumed him. Reduced to ashes by his own hand, Bhasmasur’s arrogance perished where Shiva’s compassion endured. The very mound of earth believed to be his remains still lies outside the cave. Such is the sanctity of this site that many devotees bring the mortal remains of their loved ones to the banks of the Devak here, believing that cremation in Buda Kedar Nath absolves the need to immerse ashes in the Ganga at Haridwar. For the spirit attains liberation right here in the presence of Mahadev.
This sacred land comes alive each year with the Buda Kedar Nath Mela, a celebration of devotion and divine connection. Commencing on 10th July, the festival draws thousands of devotees who gather with hearts full of reverence and eyes brimming with faith. The highlight of the celebration is the Shadi Yatra, a symbolic procession of cosmic union that will once again grace the sacred grounds on 10th July 2025, coinciding with the auspicious day of Guru Purnima, beginning from the Chandi Mata Temple in Garnai Chowk, Udhampur.
To walk the path to Buda Kedar Nath is to retrace the steps of gods and demons, sages and seekers. It is to stand before a living testimony of Shiva’s boundless compassion and Vishnu’s divine intervention. It is to feel the pulse of eternity in the cool waters of the Devak and the sacred silence of the cave. Above all, it is to realize that here, in this timeless sanctuary nestled in the lap of nature, the devotee does not merely come to see the divine; the devotee becomes one with the divine.
(The author is a well-renowned local priest of the area.)
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