Kheer Bhawani’s Timeless Grace
Every year, as the sacred spring of Tul Mula in Ganderbal begins to shimmer under the early summer sky, a powerful tradition returns to life. The annual Mela Kheer Bhawani, celebrated on Jyeshtha Ashtami, is more than a religious gathering—it is a living symbol of the unshaken spiritual resilience of a people, the enduring fabric of communal solidarity, and a poignant reminder of a cultural memory shaped by displacement, longing, and hope. For the Kashmiri Pandit community, who continue to grapple with the pain of exile since the turbulent events of 1990, this pilgrimage is not just a return to a sacred space but a reaffirmation of their roots, faith, and identity. For many, it is a moment of reunion—with the land, with their collective past, and with the divine mother, Mata Raginya Devi, who is believed to reside eternally in the holy spring.
Kashmir has long been known as a cradle of spirituality, philosophy, and aesthetic sophistication. It is from this soil that some of India’s deepest philosophical streams like Kashmir Shaivism emerged, rooted in non-duality and centered around the unity of Prakash and Vimarsh—the divine light and its self-reflective consciousness. In this worldview, the Divine Feminine, as Vimarshni Shakti, occupies a central place. Kheer Bhawani, the revered goddess of the sacred spring, is a powerful embodiment of this consciousness. Her shrine, nestled among majestic chinar trees and nourished by the mystical spring, stands as a testament to Kashmir’s rich spiritual legacy. It is also a shrine uniquely shared, respected, and protected by Kashmiri Muslims—underscoring the shared sacred geography and mutual reverence that defined interfaith relations in Kashmir for centuries. The significance of Mela Kheer Bhawani has grown even deeper in the context of the Kashmiri Pandit displacement. Despite the forced migration and subsequent diaspora, the community has never allowed this tradition to fade. Every year, pilgrims from across India, many of whom have grown up away from their ancestral land, make the journey to Tul Mula, often under heavy security, to light lamps, offer kheer, and whisper silent prayers at the lotus feet of the Mother. In these moments, devotion bridges decades of distance, and memory becomes a mode of resilience. The shrine, in many ways, functions as a memoryscape—a sacred space where the community reconstructs its sense of belonging and keeps its cultural heritage alive despite political, geographical, and generational dislocations. What is particularly heartening is the active participation of local Kashmiri Muslims in maintaining and honouring this shrine. Many serve the pilgrims, clean the grounds, and express solidarity with the returning Pandits. It is not uncommon to find Muslims from neighbouring villages visiting the temple on Jyeshtha Ashtami, lighting candles and offering their own prayers for peace. This quiet but powerful participation reflects the deeper truth about Kashmir—that beneath the layers of pain, politics, and polarisation, there exists a shared spiritual rhythm and cultural syncretism that has endured centuries. The changing colour of the spring is another unique aspect of the Kheer Bhawani tradition, seen by devotees as a divine signal of the prevailing energies and moods in the Valley. In 1990, when Kashmir witnessed the onset of militancy and large-scale displacement, the spring reportedly turned dark—a sign many interpreted as an ominous warning. Yet, over the years, the waters have returned to their natural hues, and the temple has seen the slow but steady return of devotees, hinting perhaps at a larger cycle of healing and return. As the Mela continues to draw thousands, including the new generation of Pandits who may have never lived in Kashmir but carry its legacy in their hearts, it stands as a quiet declaration: that roots may be severed by conflict, but they are rarely destroyed. The act of returning, even temporarily, becomes an act of resistance against forgetting and an affirmation of the right to remember.
In a time when divisions often make headlines, Mela Kheer Bhawani offers a soft but firm reminder of what binds us—the ability to honour shared spaces, the courage to remember, and the grace to forgive. Let the sacred spring continue to flow, not just with water but with the enduring spirit of resilience, unity, and hope that Kashmir, in its truest essence, has always embodied.
